This year I had the opportunity to make another one of my dreams become true and I also believe this is the dream of many surfers around the world, to surf the waves of Hawaii.
It all started when I was in Indonesia last year, after suffering a serious surfing accident at Padang Padang in Bali, I had to go back to Brazil for surgery and after spending a long time away from surfing in recovery I decided that as soon as i had recovered, I'd get in back shape and go for my first season at Hawaii in 2010. I took this as a goal and also as an overcoming of all I had lived in 2009.

My recovery was taking longer than expected and I didn't have to make a more appropriate preparation to face the mighty waves of the Hawaiian winter. In January I went to the Gold Coast - Australia, where I tried to surf every day power waves as South Stradbroke Island, Burleigh Heads, among others, and in February i finally went to Hawaii.

The arrival in Honolulu was unforgettable. I went to the hotel which was located at Waimea Bay / Oahu where I was very well received. I left my boards and my backpack in the room and rented a bike, because to rent a car is VERY expensive. I took the bike and went straight to fulfill what was not exactly a dream but rather a boundless curiosity that I had since I started to practice and follow the world of surfing, which was to see with my own eyes the famous wave of Pipeline breaking.

When i got there I saw 8 foot waves with bigger sets, but it was blowing an onshore wind and the waves were messy with only a few bodyboarders out there. It was a great emotion, I was stoked! Even in those conditions I could see the potential and power of the waves.

During the days that followed I could see all the breaks of the North Shore pumping and i surfed waves as Rocky Point, Off the Wall, Backdoor, and I also witnessed everything that we always hear about Hawaii, heavy and dangerous waves, huge boards that easily got snapped in half and hepas of wipeouts, lots of tension, huge crowd and a difficulty to adapt with all of that scenario.
I was on the North Shore for 20 days and after this trip experience I came to the conclusion that Hawaii is a place with a spectacular nature, wonderful beaches, big waves, powerful and very dangerous. To surf it well you must be very fit physically and mentally, a large quiver of boards and a go for it attitude to drop those waves.

This was another trip for me to remember. With the love for this sport,even more than that, I have as a lifestyle and I battled hard to be able to travel, meet and surf perfect waves in different places and sometimes I had to give up many other things to be there searching moments that only a soul surfer know, especially when riding inside the barrels.

What makes me very happy and pleased with the surf trips, is that they always bring us lots of waves and perfect tubes in baggage, and also the experiece of life gained through living with new people, other cultures and different religions in the places i go .
After a trip like this I kept that feeling of gratitude for everything I've done, the happiness of having fulfilled my duty and also the feeling that drives me to continue searching after something that I believe there will never end, this spirit of exploration , knowledge, peace, balance and harmony with life, surfing and nature.

Aloha!

By: Fabio Luis Bassanesi